Pork Leg Braised in Milk with Cabbage and Celeriac Mash (Part 1)

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We have so much going on in this dish I decided to divide it over two parts so that you don't doze off half way through reading it.

First up is the meat part, a variation of a Marcella Hazan creation, substituting pork loin for the leg. The reason for this substitution is pretty simple - I turned the loins from my pigs into chops so short of sticking them back together, I had little choice! It was the butcher who convinced me to save the leg from sausage meat (I love sausages) and as he put effort into saving them I thought they should be treated with some respect.


I often find the leg quite tricky to cook as it is a lean chunk of meat and quite capable of drying out. Braising it at a lazy simmer over a few hours helps avoid this unwanted outcome. A temperature probe is also a useful addition to make sure you don't cook it longer than needed. The introduction of milk to the pot optimises the texture and tenderness of the pork leg and leaves us with a delicious by-product in the form of a nut-brown sauce.

The Pork Leg Recipe

Ingredients
15g butter
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1.2kg pork leg
salt 
freshly ground pepper 
550ml full fat milk


1. Heat the butter and oil over a medium-high heat in a heavy-bottomed casserole dish or saucepan in which the pork fits snugly.



2. When the butter foam subsides add the pork (fat side down) and brown on all sides. Lower the heat if the butter starts to burn.


3. Season the pork with salt and freshly ground pepper


4. Slowly add the milk to the pot.


5. When the milk comes to a boil reduce the heat to medium-low or even low to keep the milk at a low simmer.



6. Cover the pot with the lid a bit askew. Turn and baste the leg occasionally and if needed add more milk.


7. Cook the pork slowly until the meat is fork-tender, about 1½ to 2 hours. If you have a temperature probe the meat is ready at 70 °C.

8. By this time the milk should have coagulated into small nut-brown clusters on the bottom of the pan. If not remove the leg, turn up the heat and continue to cook the milk briskly until it starts to darken.


9. Remove the leg and let it rest for a few minutes before cutting it into slices about 1cm thick.

10. Skim all the fat from the pot. Add a few tablespoons of water to the pan and scrape up all the residue on the bottom of the pot as the water evaporates. 

11. Plate the sauce with the pork and serve immediately.


I had read quite a few good reviews of this recipe before trying it myself and I have to say I wasn't disappointed.

Braising the meat in milk ensured a lovely tenderness and a richness of flavour that I haven't experienced with pork before. By keeping a careful eye on the temperature of the pork you will manage to avoid drying out the meat or making it too tough. The surprise success for me though was the nut-brown clusters that come as a result of the cooked milk. The sweetness of this sauce elevated the pork to the next level and turned an often forgotten cut into something that could be brought out on special occasions. I definitely recommend giving it a try and maybe even experimenting by adding some herbs in with the milk.

Keep posted to the blog over the next week or so for Sophia's delicious accompaniments to the meat, a celeriac mash and cabbage with fried bacon.




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